Cut creases are taking over Instagram and are becoming steep competition for the ever-popular smokey eye. A cut crease is also a go-to for anyone looking to create a fantasy, avant garde, and editorial make-up look because it not only makes the eye are stand out, it creates the illusion of a larger, more open eye; hence you'll find this look often in theater. (Hey, Cirque!)
In a typical cut crease, a lighter shade is placed on the lid, while a color that's 2-3 shades deeper is used in the crease to create depth. Typically, the shades used in the crease area will be the ones that blend effortlessly into each other (green/blue, yellow/orange, pink/purple). The shades used in the crease are not blending into the eyelid; rather there's a clean, hard line that separates the two - this is what gives it the intense "cut" look.
It's no surprise that everyone loves the look of a sunset; it's colors are soothing, beautiful, and capture attention no matter what. When we sat down with Cambria Francesca, a plus model in LA, she asked us to use the sunset as inspiration for her make-up. Challenge accepted!
When doing a sunset make-up, it's crucial that the rest of the ones used on the face compliment the eyes to create a cohesive look. Being we are going to be use warm colors (yellows, oranges, and reds) for the eyes, we used a rust (that is, orange & red) bush and a warm brown shade for the contour.
To start off a dramatic look, we recommend outlining the upper and lower lashline, as well as the waterline (inner rim) with a black pencil to begin adding dimension and to create a contrast for the bright colors to really pop against. A pencil brush is best for smudging the liner out, especially for under the eye.
On the eyelid, we used an old matte yellow eyeshadow from MAKE UP FOR EVER as a base. You want to build up to your desired intensity and if you're like us, you'll pop Full Moon Enchanted Pigment on top of that. Full Moon is a white gold iridescent pigment that gives the most amazing glow and creates gorgeous dimension that makes the lids look larger. We use this on the lid, under her brow, and on her cheeks. Did we mention this was a glowing, bronze-y, cut crease?
The most crucial part of the look is the crease - and this is also the most challenging. Follow these steps and watch our tutorial here as we show you a very easy way to nail it every time!
Take a tapered blending brush (as shown below) and your first eyeshadow for the crease. For this look, we recommend orange. KEEPING YOUR EYES OPENED and looking straight ahead, hold the brush STRAIGHT forward, and place the tip of the brush directly above the center of your eye into the crease. Mark that spot. Having the eyes opened works because you're creating shadow in the crease and it really allows you to map out where you need to cut the crease to make your eyes look more open and really pop; another placement tip is to follow the natural curve of your eye socket going from the inner corner of the eye and going out.
After you've made your mark, slowly drag the brush down toward the outer corner and stop right before touching the outer lash line. Then you softly blend the line out in the same direction as your shape. Keeping your eyes opened also allows you to see where to end your line.
You want the end of the cut crease to line up at a 45 degree angle from the lower lash line toward the tail of your brow - creating an invisible triangle to the outer corner.
Going in with a skinnier tapered blending brush and a magenta, so we can utilize all the colors of the sunset, we are repeating the same process just did inside the middle of the orange. Being that we're using a smaller brush, the line will be tighter and add to the dimension.
To finish the crease, we are going to continue sculpting with the thinnest eyeliner brush and our darkest shade. We decided to use one of our liquid lipsticks in Vampress (a deeper magenta) for extreme intensity. We like to bring the drama! The same steps apply as above, except being it's a liquid product, you want to pay close attention and applying purposefully in small sections - because it can dry fast and it's water resistant. Same goes if you're using a gel or liquid eyeliner. We placed this line at the bottom of the magenta, in between that and the orange. The point is to create maximum depth.
Using the same skinny tapered brush that we used for the magenta color, we are going to buff out our liquid line, using that magenta eyeshadow on the brush to keep the saturation of colors consistent and help with blending.
Pop more Full Moon onto the lid (careful not to touch the crease area) so the bottom of the crease is super cut and clean.
Instead of using black eyeliner, we decided to use Poseidon Eyeliner Potion to complete this look. The blue in Poseidon is reminiscent of the sky and seascapes you see at sunset, so it's only perfect to pair with for a sunset inspired eye. We went for a smaller wing to really make the crease look the star of the show.
In our humble opinion, no make-up is truly complete without Fairy Lights Enchanted Pigment (aka mermaid magic!) popped into the inner corner.
Finally, it's time to work on our lips! When doing a bold eye, it is suggested to do a more natural lip so they don't compete with one another for attention. Buffy Lipstick Potion is a great choice, as it's a peachy nude that looks good on everyone. And of course, we threw Full Moon in the center of the lip for a shimmering, metallic finish. The gold and peach are beautiful together.
To see this look done step by step, check out our Tutorial with Cambria here!